I mean gourmet by comparison. McDonald's is gourmet compared to sand. Likewise, porn is gourmet compared to cinema from a sexual perspective (at least the kind of cinema the article is about), because cinema had to stop at sanitized teasing where porn can go all the way. For the average viewer, that's fine wine in terms of sexual gratification, even if the execution is the joyless jackhammering that as you rightly point out is typically what hits the front pages of mainstream tube sites.